Jewelry Education
Pearls 101: Origins, Types, and How to Care for Them
Few gems carry the quiet elegance of a pearl. Formed entirely by living organisms, each one is a small miracle of nature. Here is everything you need to know about where pearls come from, how they differ, and how to keep them beautiful for a lifetime.
Pearl Chain Drop Earrings
Pearl Drop Station Necklace
How Pearls Are Formed
Pearls form inside mollusks when a foreign particle enters the shell. As a natural defense response, the mollusk encases the intruder in layers of nacre — the same iridescent material that lines the shell — and over time, a pearl is born.
Ninety-nine percent of pearls on the market today are cultured, meaning a pearl sac is manually placed inside a shell at a regulated facility. Natural pearls — formed entirely without human intervention — are far rarer and considerably more valuable. The host mollusk, the water environment, and the nacre's varying hardness (2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale) all contribute to the distinct colors and character each pearl develops.
Types of Pearls
Not all pearls are alike. Each variety has its own origin, size range, and color palette — which is part of what makes them so endlessly interesting.
Akoya Pearls
The classic pearl. Typically 6 to 7 mm, with rare specimens reaching 9 to 12 mm. Colors range from white to cream with soft pink or green overtones. Primarily sourced from Japan, China, and Vietnam — and known for their exceptionally sharp, mirror-like luster.
Freshwater Pearls
Also called Spice Pearls. Ranging from 4 to 14 mm, with exceptional specimens reaching 16 mm. Available in the widest spectrum of colors of any pearl type. Primarily sourced from China, with additional production in Japan and the USA.
South Sea Pearls
Also known as Golden Lip pearls. Large and luxurious, ranging from 8 to 16 mm with exceptional stones reaching 20 mm. Exhibit white or golden hues with a satiny, soft luster. Sourced from Indonesia, Burma, and Thailand.
Tahitian Pearls
Often called Black Pearls. Typically 7 to 12 mm, with some reaching 16 mm. Display a captivating range of colors — gray, green, blue, and purple — with an iridescent depth unique to this variety. Sourced primarily from French Polynesia.
Keshi Pearls
Byproducts of the cultured pearl process, formed entirely of solid nacre with no nucleus. Variable in size and shape, but prized for their exceptionally high luster and organic, free-form silhouettes.
How Pearls Are Graded
Pearl value is determined by a combination of factors. Unlike diamonds, there is no universal grading standard — but these are the qualities every reputable jeweler evaluates.
Size and weight
Larger pearls are rarer and more valuable. Measured in millimeters.
Shape
Ranges from perfectly spherical (most valued) to semi-round, button, drop, and baroque.
Luster
The most important quality factor — the sharpness and depth of reflection on the pearl's surface.
Surface quality
Fewer blemishes and spots indicate a higher grade and greater value.
Color
Body color plus overtone. Neither is universally "better" — preference and rarity both play a role.
Nacre thickness
Thicker nacre means greater durability and a deeper, more luminous luster over time.
How to Care for Your Pearls
Pearls are among the more delicate fine jewelry materials — organic in origin and sensitive to chemicals, heat, and abrasion. A little care goes a long way.
- ◇ Wipe pearls with a soft, dry cloth after each wear to remove skin oils and residue
- ◇ Use a slightly damp cloth for deeper cleaning — never submerge in water
- ◇ Keep pearls away from perfume, hairspray, and lotions — apply those first, then put on your pearls
- ◇ Avoid contact with alcohol, bleach, or any harsh chemicals
- ◇ Store in a soft pouch or lay flat — never in an airtight container, as pearls need a little moisture to maintain their luster
- ◇ Restring pearl necklaces when the pearls begin to move freely between knots — this prevents loss and keeps the strand looking its best
Ready to add a pearl piece to your collection? Explore our full pearl collection — including our new Pearl Station Necklace — and discover their timeless luster in our earring and necklace designs.